Sunday, May 6, 2012

Lorli and the Temples of Vroom!


Ok, so I know that I promised to provide yall with photos of my trip pretending to be Indiana Jones while visiting Angkor Wat during the Khmer New Year Holiday, which I will do. But honestly the place is so immense and amazing that my lil iphone pics cannot do it nearly enough justice, even with my artsy $1 app that makes it look like I know how to take pics. There is a reason that tourists go there for a week and spend pretty much all day everyday visiting temples. There are like a million of them I am pretty sure, and they are all pretty dang cool too. I guess that's what happens when you have successive kings trying to outdo each other over a few thousand years.

If you really want to know more about it, my suggestion is to hop on a plane to Phnom Penh to come and visit me! I very much like visitors! When you get here we can cruise to Siem Reap and I will play tour guide and you can take all the photos your heart desires. We will even stop for the best cheeseburgers I have had to date in Cambodia. Sounds like a plan to me. We can even hit up Battambang, a sleepy town with some very cool old colonial architecture, awesome people, and good french fries too. Just give me about a weeks notice and I will take care of the rest. Done and Done. See you there.

Now I have some other fun stuff I want to discuss with you. I have been working on an idea in my brain, trying to document the different modes of transportation in the lovely Kingdom of Cambodia. Besides the Khmer Rich rolling deep in SUV's there are some pretty awesome methods of getting around town and making sure whatever goods you have get there too. From overfilled trucks with dudes riding on top, to bicycles with old ladies meandering through dirt roads there are multiple modes utilized here. With all the different types of ways of getting from A to B, by far the most entertaining has to be the moto. For me, I am actually getting pretty used driving our machines around town, which is pretty fun, albeit a tad dangerous and it can also be a bit hectic. Need to meet some folks to discuss NGOness at a coffee shop, hop on a moto and Pow! There in a jif. Need to grab lunch from one of the lovely ladies at the Russian Market, moto+me=done. Pretty simple math.

One drawback is that you never know when Johnny Law might pull you over for just about anything. Got blues shoes on, that's a ticket. Driving with a light on, that's a ticket(best part about is that it is totally illegal to drive with a light on during the day, but no problem driving at night without a light). Being white, That's definitely a ticket. But with all the dodging of the po po, I am improving my bargaining skills with them too. Very easy to talk your way out of a $20 ticket down to just a couple bucks. My personal move is to make a phone call, pretend I am talking to a boss at an NGO, then tell the copper to take me to the station because I would gladly pay the fine, I just need a receipt for the NGO. For some reason they never want to, wonder why...... Anyways now that I am official to drive with my real license issued from the Cambodian Man, I am emboldened to keep up my motoing ways.

Keeping with the theme here, many of you have probably heard me talk about how much I enjoy these thangs, so I made a plan to document these machines to show everybody stateside what coolness/crazyness I get to witness on the daily here. Really the best part about moto's in Asia is not just the machines or the people riding them, but what you can actually put on them. Motoists get pretty inventive when it comes to hauling around goods in these parts. So far I have seen pigs(yes not just one but multiple pigs!) on the back of a moto, 5 people on one moto(only 1 helmet though), tractor tires(about 5 was what I counted), and I have even heard of fridges being transported on these bad boys. Pretty much if you can figure out a way to make sure it doesn't fall of you can take it on a moto.

Last Friday afternoon, when my work was pretty much done for the day I went outside the casa/officina grabbed a chair and sat for about 25 minutes just looking for some fun stuff to cruise by. Literally in just the 25 minutes I was able to capture what I would say is a pretty nice slice of Cambodiana motoness. The neighbors were pretty hip to my game and it became a community effort to look down the road, see what was coming down our way and make sure I was ready to snap a pic. Savuern's father, who is probably the coolest dude in Cambodia by far, was more than happy to play lookout for me and give me a thumbs up when he saw a good rig on its way. When I showed him the afternoons work of street snapping unsuspecting moto drivers, we were both satisfied with our work.

It now becomes a bit of an afternoon trend, taking a 15 minute break to hang out on Savuern's porch, eat a cookie, mango, or whathaveyou, talk in broken English and Khmer, mostly not understanding anything being said, but somehow smiling and laughing a whole lot. They also find it fun to watch what stuff gets strapped to the back, sides, tops, whatever of these. Pretty good times and when you come to visit the temples I can take you there too and enjoy the radness of the hood and its inhabitants.

Here is some of our handywork from the afternoon, and ok ok a couple pictures of temples too. Enjoy!

Bag Man.
 

Somebody Just Hit Up the Khmer Ikea!


Just Think About How You Would Even Try to Add 2 More to on This?

3 Folks 1 Helmet.

Notice the PJ's, Pretty Standard Issue on Khmer Ladies.



Dude in the Back is My Partner in Crime. Dude in the Front, Movin Some Merch.

BattamBang!!!!

Tried to Get Artsy With This One.

Where We're Going We Don't Need Roads.




BattamBang Market.

Cambodian Countryside as Seen From Like a Million Stairs.


My Steed for Cruising Angkor Wat.

Pretty Effing Kewl!






This is Bayon.  This is Also Some Dudes Face.

I Thought This Looked Pretty Neat.



Probably Some of the BEST People Watching Ever Here.


Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Yum Yums

When living the Cambodian dream, it's nice to have a couple of strong arms in the bullpen when it comes to eats.  Being halfway through my time here I have found a couple of go tos and even a few John Rockers, where they coming running out the gates fire some heat and either get it done or melt your insides.  

For the most part food here is a mix of neighboring countries Thailand and Vietnam with some Chinese thrown in the mix too.  Khmer food itself is pretty good, with an interesting rotten fish paste sauce called prahok, which can range from wow that doesn't taste like fish at all and is quite pleasant to holy shit I'm pretty sure I'm eating rotten fish.  Which as most with a western palate can imagine us pretty fucking awful.  Otherwise there is a lot of peasant style food, all stewed together and served with rice, or grilled up and served with rice.  Which by the way I am beginning to crave on a daily basis.  It gets served with every meal here: 

Breakfast-pork and rice or rice noodles with weird sauce as I call it or rice porridge with chickeny bits and chicken blood chunks. 

Lunch: stewed or grilled critters with rice, rice noodle soup, rice noodle salad, or maybe a KFC smacker if you are feeling big-time. 

Dinner: repeat the other option from lunch that you didn't eat yet. 

Now living in the burbs, we don't have much in the way of expat fancy spots with French culinary heart stoppers like Croque Monsiuers but we do have plenty of the local eats.  Which can be good and/or bad. Or really good then uh oh, maybe that was bad after all.   Playing a daily game of the tummy wobbles is a constant.   It all depends on where the stuff comes from, and how fresh, as a lot of local eateries don't have fancy refrigeration devices, but rather a block of ice keeping the critter of the day fresh.  

So with all of this in mind here are a couple of my favorite eatin holes that I have found, and even a few of the lovely ladies that serve me the goodness, and make sure my tummy wobbles right.


Lady 1- Street Noodle Lady
Found this lovely lady my first week here when I was still jet lagged and not quite my freshest.  When starving and being shown around town, I asked a couple of barkeeps where they eat(note to all, always ask the barkeep where they eat or what to eat if the bar serves food. It is usually the best recommendation you will ever get. Right Wolfeyes?) and they looked out the front door and said "yup she is here. Just go to the corner and see the lady in the cart, its good.". Or something like that, I didn't have a tape recorder and y'all know how quickly I forget stuff.  Anyways, at $1 per plate and as of now probably $20 spent here, this moto bike with a mean street chef keeps me full on the reg.  She's got two options on this rig, noodles with a concoction of sauces some street meat, some greens, and a fried egg and fried rice. Both are good, but the noodles kill it for sure.

 
No food truck needed, we already got a noodle-moto.


Lady 2- Spring Roll Lady
This gem of a lamb works at the Russian market and serves $1 worth of veggie spring rolls with noodles, peanuts, sauces and bit of sasitude.  Even when I am there and I don't actually eat at her joint, she know me enough to suggest that I at least need a couple of spring rolls even after I have just eateded.   She is good and knows my weakness, which I commend her on. 

She chefs up a mean batch of goodness filled with rice noodles, herbs, and scissored up spring rolls with mix of five or so sauces, one of which looks like milk but is definitely not, and pow. Welcome to Flavor Country.  Population You.  


Would you be able to tell this lady no? Didn't think so.


Put all these together and you get something pretty amazing.


Lady 3-Noodle Soup Lady

This babe hangs right next door to the spring roll lady, which gives me the toughest daily decision when cruisin the market for lunch.  But often times she wins out with her noodle soupy yumins. Now at first I played it safe and ate stuff like the chickeny bits.  It was good.  But then after a getting good at the game of street meat, I started venturing into the bits and pieces.  And believe you me, was I missing out.  Never did I realize that insides could be so good. Typically, my only foray into this field was with menudo, and to be honest, this stuff kicks it in the ding dong. There are some special techniques that they know on this side of the world which makes you say wow. This really doesn't taste like the inside of a pig, and keeps the chew factor at a minimum. Add in some healthy dose of your choice of noodles, different types of chili, and some greens and pow there you have it. Pig part brothy goodness ready for consumption. Extra bonus here is that my roommate can get soup without meat, which is usually quite tough to do, but allows for equitable lunches for all while on a busy work day.


Insides soup for the Cambodian soul.


*This is not this noodle soup lady, she was on vacation when I began this post, so I have this artist rendition of another soup lady, who is also quite phenomenal, instead.


Lady 4- Saveurn (SA- voon) AKA our Cambodian Madre

Where do I start with her. Saveurn is our neighbor and house caretaker. She also happens to run the local fruit and veg stand right about 50 feet from our front door. She spends half of her day selling fresh produce to local passer-bys on via moto and the local community who cruise to her shop to get whatever stuff they need for the day. The second half of the day she works for us taking care of the house, office, rooms, kitchen, everything. Now not only do each of us who live in the house frequent her shop on the daily to pick up stuff, my go to is some greens and stuff to make a $.15 pack of noodles into magic or mangoes for a late afternoon snack, but she has now figured out what each of us like, and brings us green mangoes and other interesting fruits just about every other day. Have you ever munched a green mango with homemade chile, salt, sugar, and dried shrimp? If not I suggest cruise to the Safeways bud, pick up a couple and blow a hole in what your mind once thought was delicious.

Now if that wasn't enough, she also cooked us up an amazing Khmer New Year dinner at her casa, and I have been lucky on occasion to get some homemade lunches before she cruises over to our place in the afternoon. I usually just play dumb and leisurely stroll by around 11:45 to pick up a snack, and then hey what have you, pork and veggies with rice? Well I was just gonna eat a snack, but ok ok I will try a bit and stay for lunch. I think she might be catching onto my game, but I don't think she minds at all. In fact I have been negotiating some cooking classes for me with her to learn some of the secrets of turning chicken hearts into, well, more edible chicken hearts. From her estimation its gonna cost me about $3 to cook dinner for the whole crew, not bad at all. So Savuern, if you have wifi in your spot and happen to have been playing a funny game pretending you don't know English this whole time and are reading this, "MUCHAS GRACIAS SENORITA!!"


Sa-VOOOOOOOOON!!!!!!!!


Creating some Khmer New Year decorations.


Well this was just a bit about some of how I keep myself fed properly while over here. There is also some decent home cooking that goes on as well, but honestly getting full for $1 often beats me cooking in 100 degree heat. As I said before, you sweat just about doing anything. Writing a blog. Yup.



Sometimes I just end up eating Gollum Fishes. My preciousssss.



If you count there are about 5 different animal products going into one of these sambos.



Which of these two ended up in my tummy? Maybe both?



Centipede, Snake, and who thefuckknows wine. Guaranteed to make you see something.


Next Time: Who has 300 pictures of temples. This Guy! Thanks Khmer New Year!

Li Hi!

Thursday, March 22, 2012

SWEATISTAN

Hola amigos and amiguettes. I have been inundated with the French since I have arrived and it has began to wear off in my slangitude. Lo Siento to those who prefer their slang to be spanglish and fries to be freedom. But I digress, and need to get back to my original idea, as we both know we I can jabber on for quite a while if let to. Well so as I was sayin, whats up. Me not much thanks for asking, although I have been diligently working on officially changing the name from Skateistan to Sweatistan due to my new understanding of what it is to be constantly moist. On the reg I usually get through 2-3 shirts each day depending on how much awesome I spread while at sk8 sessions, or just cruising around town getting dirte. Sweating while eating, done and done, for some reason hot, spicy, brothy, yummy soup tends to be always on the menu, and I keep falling for it. Every time. Sweating while sleeping you betcha, pretty icky. Sweating while sweating, got that one down too, pretty much a no brainer.

While I am describing my new personal perspiration habits, many of you kind souls are thinking well uncle rory, how does one keep kewl in such a place. Here is my lil secret for ya, and it has to actually be one of my top three things in the world. Those that know me well, understand I have love in my heart for only three things. Thats it, thats all, just three very important life giving things;

Nachos- Found em here and lets just say not up to par, or even close to being on the course actually. For some reason Mexican food is an unexportable product. Every place I have ever had Mexican food outside of the two countries which are and once were Mexico, I just get sad. Probably not gonna cool me down to much, actually might be in line with the meat sweats you can find here too. So this option is out.

Dr Pepper- Found it. Delicious as always, maybe a bit old as it had a Thor Movie can, but those 23 flavors come shining through everytime. (except right now while I have given up sweets for lent in an effort to eat more of the yummy fruits that really do grow around here. Next door they got a mango tree, sometimes think about shimmying up there to grab a couple good ones, but then I think of what happens to mr. Chow round these parts, and well I just pony up the $.25) Might cool you down for a bit, but then you realize that the dr is only 12 fluid oz's of flavor, which only lasts a few minutos, and then you are back on a first class flight to Sweatistan. This option is only a temporary fix.

The Mall- Found it! Commerce, FroYo, Cafe, and most importantly A.C.!!!!!!!And this my friends is my secret to keeping cool in these parts. Although there is no Cherry Creek, South Coast, or The Grove out here, there is Sovanna shopping center and City Mall which is right down the way. Not more than a few minutes in a super sweaty car ride away, which really prepares you amped for the AC, is a nice little slice of commerce.

Head out the front door in your choice of vehicle, moto, red rocket, sketchy lil truck, or the beast from the east(these are all our cars here, and actually deserve their own post, maybe I will write a fictional piece about how they are actually like go-bots((not transformers, cuz they would actually work well, and are probably japanese)) and they would tepidly fight crime around here, and then when it got kinda hard they just take off their hoods and sit around some small chairs and tables drinking angkor and mekong moonshine and snacking on peanuts), then just take follow dirt street 77, to 271(where we found our friend the Body), hang a lucy, avoid a sea of motos and oncoming traffic, quick randy(or taco if you are reading this in ChiCity), and voila you are there. A lil slice of paradise, wedged in between some pretty rad street soup, a gaming center, a KFC, and a whole bunch of other random shopettes selling the typical knock off goodies.

Although there is no McD's, there is soft serve mcflurry types at the lucky burger, which seem nice enough, haven't it yet due to lenten vows but it will be dominated in less than 40 days and nights. There are plenty of good things at my new mall. Food courts and an arcade spell Friday night to me alright. Throw in some of the local hooligans wandering around, an ice skating rink, and shitloads of commerce, and there you have it, Mall. I have taken the liberty to document some of my favorite things to do at the Sovanna Mall, which you will see below. *Please note the smile on my face is due the the incredible power of the A.C. kicking out prime BTU's in this place. An oasis of chill in the desert of Sweatistan.

This most recent trip to the mall was quite exquisite. It started as a nice little lunch jaunt with to hit up the food court and see what kind of heat they bring. But ended up being an all out assault with Tattoos, arcades, and FroYo. The type of lunch break that is most needed when one has a nice layer of sweat and grime built up. I have included a few pics of this great outing, but I was prompted to not take photos in a few places, my guess is because most of the stuff sold their is not exactly "legal."


Lets mall it up yall!



All kind of Shoes and Bags. All kinds of Clothes. Why Yes.



Screw the escalator, we taking the lift!



Keeping cool on the outiside with AC. Keeping cool on the inside with FroYo.



Food Court Lunch. Surprisingly no orange chicken. But the BiBimBop was yummy and even funner to say!



Pretty sure a whole container meant for Claire's ended up here.



Airbursh Tatt time. There was no 18 for Manning, so I just went with the stock Unicorn.



Hurts much less than I thought.



You aint got one of these at your mall.



Happy Land indeed! You get like 20 quarters worth of tokens for 2 dollars worth of quarters. Whoa. PS they wouldn't let me take photos in here, so there is nothing of me dominating Dance Dance Revolution.

That is just about it from the mall, but don't worry I go there a couple times a week so there could be more to come.

Green Eyes Gonna Miss Ya.

Vaya Con Doritos.

Friday, March 2, 2012

Cambodian Hipsters and Tales From the Kingdom

This week we have two separate but equally entertaining, takes on my time here in Cambodia so far. The first of which has to deal with the permeation of hipsters to all reaches of the globe, and the second are some random stories that I have heard so far while talking with colleagues, expats, and whoever else will listen to me jabber on in a form of English that can be quite fast and mumbly to say the least. Sometimes I even wonder how I fit so many words into a sentence. Anywho, here we go.

Having experienced hipsterdom from many locales across the states, there are a couple of emerging traits that one can recognize when in the presence of such. Now, don't get me wrong, these are not your traditional ironic tattoo, fixie riding, urbanites who frequent the Williamsburgs, Abbott Kinneyz, and Logan Squares of the world. Oh no, this Cambodian version of hipster might not even consider themselves a hipster at all, yet they fit all of the tell tale signs of the art of being ironically indifferently apathetically amazing. Now some of you reading might be saying to yourselves, well Uncle Rory, I think you yourself might be one of the very hipsters that you seem to be mocking, to which I say "Shut Your Mouth." But really, yes, I implore many of these traits myself, which means that I can speak from more than just personal experiences and tight jeans. I mean come on I write a blog, don't think it gets more hipster than that, ok maybe if I had an Etsy site.

I have put together a lil list of things that hipsters across the globe adore and see how they fit in my new spot. I know that there are a so many traits that can be considered, but I chose a couple of my favorites. Cheers.

Cheap Beer and Whiskey- Hipsters love cheap beer and Whiskey and guess what so do Cambodianins. There are no PBR's, Hams, or Schlitz to found in the kingdom, but there are so many super cheap beers here that is impossible to keep track of them all. Angkor, Anchor, Cambodia, Phnom Penh, Beer Lao, Leo, Black Panther, and ABC all run about $.50 each. And for Whiskey, well they have their own brew here commonly referred to as Mekong Whiskey, once again super cheap(and often home brewed, uh oh, a bit further in the post I will regale you with an interesting Whiskey tale). Often these are the only two things on a menu at a local watering hole, and if you ask for anything else you get laughed at. Sound Familiar? I am pretty sure I have had similar experiences stateside where I have been frowned upon by a long mustachioed barkeep for ordering something not on the menu, with a phrase like this one in particular "Sorry sir, these are all locally sourced ingredients from California, and thus we cannot make a Margarita, as that would require us to use Tequila, which as made from agave from Mexico, and since it is not a California product cannot be served here. Would I suggest a Sparking wine and Victorville Appletini instead?"


Trucker Hats and Tight Jeans- Two items Hipsters love and also two items that many of the Khmer youth rock on a daily basis. Nuff said, pretty self explanitory here, unless there is an Angry Bird on there, then is it ironic or just Khmer? Riddle you that.



Food- Houte Cuisine is in these days on the east side of the Mekong. Everything from tip to tail cooking, pig roasts, and Asian Fusion are all found. Had me some pig intestines the other night and they were delicious, and thought to myself maybe this ballin street chef saw a recent episode of Top Chef and got the idea for using such exotic ingredients, when Tommy Collicio praised a young up and coming chef for his elegant use of sweatbreads in a carpaccio. Or maybe not.

These are a couple of the random thoughts I have on the hipster/cambodian phenomenon, and please don't get to sad that I don't have any pics, as taking random photos of people cruisin the street has seemed to get me some akward looks, and I don't want to anger my new compatriots.




Part Dos of this weeks blogness has to do with some of the rather interesting stories I have heard out here. Funny, sad, and possibly true! Who knows, but either way I think they make for good reading for you and writing for me. A couple of you might have already heard one or two of these stories, that is because you are a select few who use electronic mail to communicate with me. Feel Special!

Story 1- Eating Dog.

This one is actually a very true story. People always talk of how dogs are eated on the reg in Asia, and let me tell you that is correct! And also real fucking delicious. Really. No Joke. I ate some last week, in two forms: Curry with lemongrassy peanutty sauce, which was a tasty but might have been the puppy bits that don't make for good grillin. Chewy and a bit weird, I thought for a few minutes that my first attempt of eating Chakai*(dog in Khmer) would not be much to write home about. But then, hot off the grill came some tiny lil riblets and yummy meat pieces to our table. WoW! Dog is actually quite tender, does not taste like chicken, and proves that just about any meat grilled properly is delicious. Mugsy's BBQ has a might just have a new menu item.


CHAKAIIIII!!!!!!*


Boss man Benji, enjoying some street perro.


Story 2- Group Beatings.

With our experiences with theft here, and discussing with other expats their own bouts with crime I have come across an interesting factoid. When a Chow*(thieve) gets caught in the act here, there is usually a no nonsense public beat down that occurs where the whole community, grandma and all, kicks the shit out of somebody before the police arrive. I have heard about a few different cases, one story where the police asked why didn't the angry mob just kill the Chow*, as with the penal system here, he would be back out in a month or so to do some more thievin. Another story is about 3 thieves who were caught stealing a couple of bikes and were thus beaten by the local villagers, two of which to death, and the other into a serious condition. Although I have yet to partake in one, I am always on the lookout to join in some community bonding!

Story 3- Mekong Moonshine.

This one is probably my personal favorite, as I find it quite interesting ad equally sad. Supposedly just before I arrived this occurred: A local bloke, who wanted to get his crunk on decided to get down on some homemade Mekong Whiskey, Cambodian White Lightning, Turpentine, whatever you want to call it and have hisself a nice Friday night. As it turns out that if you brew the stuff wrong you end up with Methanol, not Alcohol, which can make you go blind, and if you drink enough this stuff which was actually once used as rocket fuel, it will kill you. Well this hombre unfortunately chose his home brew poorly and drank Mekong Methanol and ended up dying as a result of getting "pissed"( I have been hanging with a good bit of Aussies lately and picking up the slang).

No good at all and actually quite sad, as guy was just doing what people all over the world do, get a buzz on. But this being the place it is, it is easy to see how in an attempt to create a cheap version of booze, a deadly concoction was mistakenly made.

And just when you think this is the end of an awful story, this happens. At the funeral for him, seven of his buddies decide to drink away the sorrow of losing their friend, a common occurrence at almost any funeral any where. Guess what they decided to ease the pain with? Right-O Mekong Moonshine. So now I have no clue if this was from the same batch that took the life of their amigo, but the booze these seven friends all drank was also botched moonshine/methanol. And they died too. In total 8 people died of this stuff. Ouch, and I now I make all my roommates try any home brew action we buy first, just in case......



Pretty sure drinking this will make you go blind. PS. Note that it is from the ministry of mines and energy. Definitely make you go bind.


Story 4-Worms.

I have been told, with my dietary restrictions here, which are actually the same as the US, "No Mayo" and that's about it, I might be in line to meet some special friends. Parasites, or as Harry and Lloyd would say, "I Got Worms!"

If I am lucky these new friends will most likely be in my near future. One of my favorite games which I like play and have dubbed "Street Meat" (which is how I ended up eating Chakai*) and quite similar to "Street Clams" happens on the reg here. Its pretty easy and anyone can play. It goes like this: a. walk up to a street vendor b. point at a piece of meat c. see what they decide to chef it up with. Simple and always entertaining, and often times chewy.

From what I have been informed may not always be the best idea, as eating undercooked or just plain ole weird meats from street stalls could possibly be partially hazardous to my health. Realistically worms are not all that bad, and can help me lose a couple of those extra lbs I put on eating green chile and drankin beer in Rad-O before I made my way here. Pretty soon I might be up to a 2/13 pack, and start giving Zeph a run for his money in the shirts off category. Only time will tell.

Story 5-Lady Boys.

These special young men are a pretty common occurrence both here and in Thailand. In actuality the lady boy phenomenon is well known and not much of a tale, unless you wake up next to one!

You see here in the kingdom, being a white male, you are looked at in many ways, but the one that is quite common is as a sex tourist. It is awful actually, and the sex industry including the trafficking of people is a horrendous problem that has yet to be even close to solved. If I go to certain parts of the city the common phrase I hear is, " My friend you want boom boom? You want (insert any drug imaginable here)?"

Now I know you are all thinking, great is he gonna go on another development theory diatribe. Nope, bored you all with that last time, it is just the needed background information for a couple of stories I have heard from fellow shredder, local Khmer, and bartender Peter.

So with a recent art exhibition showcasing local Lady Boys, I hear two stories of wayward travelers who in search of "boom boom" didn't realize until the light of day that they had make a minor clerical error. Waking up next to a 2.5 o'clock shadow and a pair of man hands. (Khmer folks are not very hairy, hence no 5 o'clock shadow, and also find it so interesting when roundeyes like me have some fur. When I recently got a haircut, I was rocking a tank top to which the barber proceeded to pull aside to show the rest of the female workers, what a mini chest fro looks like. Kinda weird, but really, you start to get used to this kind of shit here is my guess. Back to the story). Well both of these travelin gents, failed to do their homework, not realizing that these young ladies they were paying for "boom boom" had done an excellent job of turning an outy into an iny, adding a couple extra bits, and getting a clean shave before shaking their money makers around town. Whoopsidoodle! I guess that is what you get when you spend your free time partaking in the sex trade.

I hope this time was less depressing than last week, and rest assured, things real are going quite swimmingly, and I am having a real nice time. Getting to meet a lot of interesting people, doing some good work, and actually not being so horrible at skating, key word being not horrible.

Also I have included a couple random pics I kinda like and think you should kinda like too.


Safety hat, Safety Goggles, Safety Straw. Safety First!


Sleepy Tuk Tuk Driver.


Well Said And Too The Point.


Latroids.

Lorli



I think next time will be the Return of the Crusher! Just got some sweet new wheels at Skateistan, and I be in heaven!



*All Khmer spellings are how I kinda pronounce them and probably not correct. If I wrote em in Khmer neither you nor I would have any idea what I was talking about.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Week of UnAwesome :(

So far so good right? After my first month here in Kampuchea, not much has really made me heart los estados unidos muy mucho, except of some of the basic life necessities like mexican food( just nachos with green chile and queson would do just fine please), people who drive between the lines, and TV. I guess not just basic TV, cuz we can find that down the street, I mean the kind that has 404 channels, and is available everywhere outside of here and parts of missisppi, would be my guess. Oh yeah and all of you lovely people.

Anyways, outside of an incident on an overnight bus, there were was lil to be concerned over regarding safety, besides just wearing a helmet when cruising the sweet motos around town.

Wrong, last week shit got real. I mean like real real real. Break ins, pick pockets, dirty teeves, and a good old fashioned bag snatching. Lets just roll through the week Monday-Monday. Its kind of a long post with even a touch of development theory at the end, something I told you was gonna be here on the last post, so grab a beverage, as it goes a little like this:

Monday- Not bad. Pretty good overall day, some decompressing from the Hochiminhsanity, starting to experiment with making my own Vietnamese coffee with my stash I brought over the border. Overall for here, prolly like a 7.5, nothing crazy notable, but a good day none the less.

Tuesday- Once again, things are just moving along nicely. I am actually starting to make a passable cup of Vietnamese coffee. We head out to Mith Samlanh, one of our NGOs we visit twice a week, teach some youngins. Same same as Monday for the most part up until sleepy time. 12-1am(talking weds here for those keeping track, but as i only count the next day when i wake up, its still tues and will make for a better story, just wait) things get a bit loud at outside the house, my room which is adjacent to our office which is a always bit noisey. I get up a couple times in the night but nothing seems too weird and out of place. No Big Deal. I get some more of that sweet sweet sleep in, and get up as usual, right before our morning meetings. Beauty of working where you live, zero commute!

Wednesday- Post 8:45am meeting things are going well, TPS reports and jibber jabber is filling the war room. Day 3 of Vietnamese coffee making, is a step back, too much water not enough magic beans. Around, 10 am, we notice that one of the windows is ajar. And not just kinda open, but rather opened, with a pry bar or two wedged in between the metal* window cages. No real damage, but somebody tried their hardest to steal all my deep v's and short shorts for sure, why else would they be here right. With that coming to light, precautions are recommended, and old wives tales of teeves using wire to snatch goodies, through open windows are regaled. No biggy, our house with our metal* window covers is safe and secure. Joe Pesci and that weird bearded dude from home alone and city slickers would have a tough time getting in, or so we thinks. Fast forward to the evening.

Already on edge from the night before, hard to sleep, and this time I wake up two or three times before 4am(cuz then it gets good), actually turn on some lights and walk around. This night is loud too, dogs barking, weird noises, etc. Well while I am dreaming about some chubby's chile chee fry, I get a phone call at 4am(this would be thursday morning). It's my roommate, and my other roomy calling me. They are freaking out hard. They tell me that a door is open in the house, after we diligently locked just about everything. I walk to the room and huddled under the mosquito net are two super scared roomies. After finding out we have an open door, from the inside, I am a bit creeped out, make that 3 super scared roomies.

Being the lone hombre in the casa, guess who gets to walk around a dark house in a third world country? Correct. For the next two hours I check every room in the house, luckily I found a baseball bat(made in China)and a light. Cruising around every room, trying to figure out if anyone was inside, we recognize that we are down a laptop, and someone decided to move our metal* window helpers out of place. This time in the bottom floor. Great. This is how easy it was to break in. Dude used sticks, I mean really come on, sticks to get in.

Thursday- Wake up and try to figure how to make our casa safe again, and figure out where to file a police report** get started on travel insurance forms and start to figure out how to better protect the casa. Start getting my bean to water ratio correct, and discuss that we will get a security guard, or maybe potentially move(due to the just described crime as well as the continuous burning trash dump a stones throw away. If you have some free time google this: steung meanchey, just down the street!!!!!!), or maybe razor wire, or my suggestion hang out in front of the house each evening polishing a shotgun and drankin some smooth angkor beer. With no shirt of course. Word would get around that there is a cra cra roundeye in the hood and don't fuck with that house. Well we make some moves, get a security guard, and then head out and grab a beer to reminisce the previous night at Zepplin Cafe, which by the way is by far the best bar in town with cheap cold beer and great tunage. Get home in a reasonable time, brush my teef, place the Beijing slugger next to my bead and fall asleep after a long day of UnAwesome.

Friday- Post theft, things are getting to feel a bit normal again. Less violated, just more of a realization that this country is real poor, and people will do what they can to survive, and that being a westerner around here calls immediate attention. My Vietnamese coffee recipe is getting honed in, lots of beans, liller bit of water is my new trick, used half a bag in half a week.

Things this day/ evening for the most part are nice. Our neighbors and fellow francofiles have a street concert, which was good fun, we get an out of town guest, and have a pretty laid back evening for the most part. On the way home around midnight cruising my moto(starting to get good at thisf point), I see a body in the middle of the road, face down. Not good at all. I hop of the moto and go over to the body, who is yelling for help in English (Thank god she was coherent, as usually when you come across a body in the middle of the road, things do not end up well. Either dead or a Zombie trying to dupe you into thinking they are dead only to devour your brains. I digress.). There is a crowd beginning to form, my roommates who were right with me are all there. After talking to the body we find out she is Sandra from Vancouver, and everything hurts.

We find out that someone tried to steal her purse while on a moto, a common theft around here, and she held on only to her purse only to be pulled from a moving moto, and then have her driver take off, leaving here there. My guess is that we arrived about 30 seconds after the incident, as we were the first folks there, and almost everybody passing by stopped by to see how they can help. We have our Skateistan ride with us, so we are able to load Sandra who is in some considerate pain into our car and take her one of the western hospitals in town. A French doctor lets us know that she has a broken collar bone, some chipped teeth, lots of road rash and bruises but will be ok. She will also heavily medicated for the next while. Once we can do nothing but clog the hallway of the SOS clinic, we head home and try and get some ZZ's around 4am.

Saturday- After waking up extremely tired, around 8am, we head out to one of the two daily sessions, and lucky for me I got the good one. Good in two ways; first was that the kids were killing it, hitting a mini launch ramp for the first time in their short skate careers. Second was that I didn't get pick pocketed, which happened to my roommate Frauke during the afternoon session. $10 or 7.55 Euro as she is one of Ze Germans that I work with was lifted out of her pantalones. Once again another theft. Starting to get old at this point. But we call Sandra's friend and find out she is on her way out of the hospital, and off to home in Vancouver soon. Travel safe.

We press on and head with the evening, and head to one of our freelance photographers house for a going away party with unreal ribs, Neddy believe you me I took notes, and then to another ex-pat party later in the evening. Great evening meeting new people and an overall badass time. We make it home safely, and I dream about how even taco bell would be classified as gourmet mexican food around here.

Sunday- Actually this day goes off without a hitch. Sleep in, no sessions, good eats, cruise the city for some yet unseen by parts. Vietnamese coffee, dominating it after one week, only missing the crushed ice. Fun times and quite a lazy Sunday for the most part.

Monday Again- One week, and so far it has been quite a doozy. With all that went on over the past week, one would hope that good karma, this is the land of buddha, would be cruising its way over soon. But nope, I become the most recent victim of the week of UnAwesome, as I have my local phone stolt, while at our Riverfront session. Now I didn't lose too much, but a few numbers and about $10 in prepaid credit which I just picked up. Side note, we had an almost doctor with us today who helped 3 kids with holes in their feet, not from skateboarding, but rather living the life of a street kid, which was a bit redeeming.

Now lets tally this up, in one week we had one almost break in, one real break in, one gnarly moto attempted theft, and two minor thefts. Quite a rough week indeed.

Yet, instead of being angry at what happened, well actually angry at what happened to Sandra, I can't help but start to think more about the cool stuff we get to do here. In reality I have started to realize not just what I can live without, but also more importantly what others are trying to live with. If we have the chance to get one of the kids we work with to not start sniffing glue and into something good, then I would regard it as success. Being here you meet a lot of people who work at fancy NGOs and places like the UN who are doing good work but are often obsessed with changing the world, which is great, but realistically unattainable, as whole. What you can hopefully do is affect the people around you and hope that they do the same to others, and so on and so forth.

Now that I have bored you with what I have spent the last two years studying and countless $$$$$ on, here is a bit more. I guess I just want people to know that creating new buildings and roads doesn't solve much, except maybe traffic jams here. Realistically, the only way for weeks of UnAwesome to slow down, here and in other similar countries, is to provide opportunities for people to live a decent life, thus the temptations for such UnAwesomeness are somewhat abated. It really is for lack of a better term, "Poor as Fuck" here, with people often living on so much less than $1 a day, kids picking through trash for food, yet often still smiling after it all.

For the nerds out there here are some stats: Bodia ranks 139 out of 180 countries on the Human Development Index, has a life expectancy of 63 years, and an average income of $1850 per capita PPP included. USA sits at 4 in the ranking, 78 years of life expectancy, and $43000 income PPP included(Thanks UN! Sorry for bagging on ya earlier). So on average, because of the combination of poverty, health, pollution, etc here, you are expected to live 15 years less in your life if you lose the birth lottery and get borned in Phnom Penh instead of a place even like Arvada. Gnar Gnar.

Sometimes I kinda understand what Angelina Jolie felt when coming here and picking up a couple ninos, putten em in her louis vuitton travel bags and taken em home.

Enough of the debbie downer, most of you tuned in for the funny, which I promise will be back. I just wanted to give yall something to noodle on.

Next Week either Cambodian Hipsters? or No Shoes, No Shirt, Get Radical! Depends on which group I can snap more photos of this week, which will be Awesome!

VayaConDoritos

Lorli



*When we say metal here, my guess its just shiney playdough, as my niece Z could could easily bend this shit into an oragami elephant.

** When I say "Police Report" I mean pay the police to file paperwork on your behalf, maybe even pay them to drive you to another office, and then pay them again to sign all the paperwork you paid them before to fill out. UnAwesome.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Ho Chi Minhsanity

Always read the fine print! If not you might end up like me, having to get a new Visa in order to fulfill my duties here in Cambodia. You see, I didn't quite pay attention to everything before I arrived, and accidentally purchased a Tourist Visa instead of a Bizniz Visa. Ruh Roh. What that means is that after one month here in Cambodia, I needed to get the hell out, and then get the hell back in with the right Visa in order to stay for the duration.

Now there are a couple options for this. First of which is taking a four plus hour trip to the Thai border, hopping off the bus, walking over the border, then simply paying $25 bucks for a new Visa, walking back into Cambodia, then hopping on a 4 plus hour bus trip back to Phnom Penh. Been done plenty of times by folks, and my roommates, needing to extend their Visa, and if you ask me a pretty fucking awful way of spending a day off.

The other option, which is less popular for some reason, but a way more awesome option is to take a six hour bus to Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon fill your face full of pho and spring rolls, throw a couple cheap cold Saigon beers in the mix and have an overall pretty sweet weekend. I chose option 2, and could not have been happier.

Besides the fact that Vietnam is not a third world or developing country, which in itself was a great treat, I found Ho Chi Minh to be an amazing city with blends of French Colonialism smashed right into Asian Tigeryness, all tied together with some nice cafes and the best coffee in the universe. Nice green parks filled with young people just hanging out and chillen all over. Oh yeah and malls, a bunch of em, which I absolutely love!

Quick recap of my weekend goes like this: arrived at 3pm and promptly cruised the city to check it out, grabbed a banh mi(hold the mayo) and ca phe sue da(ice coffe with sweet milk), watched a lil TV and cranked up the AC in my room(superduper nice as I have been without both since I got here), met some new homeys and got my skate on( these dudes were rad and had names like Sword and Imagine), ate spring rolls and a couple Saigons(add a splash of pleasant dinner conversation with some Aussies), cruised the city more(got offered just about any vice imaginable as being a westerner rolling by yourself people have you pegged for a certain type), fell asleep( AC and TV on again), woke up and stuffed my face with pho and soda chanh(don't worry I had about 3 ice coffees later in the day), cruised to the ZOO(place makes the Denver Zoo look like a critter Ritz Carlton), looked at some communist posters(they are still at it), discovered Trung Nguyen(best vietnamese coffee chain), found the coffee bean(best american coffee chain), back to hotel(cue AC and TV), met up and skated with Sword and the homeys(this time there were about twice as many and it was twice as fun), ate a vietnamese hotdog(recipe: chopped hot dog, pate, laughing cow cheese, waffley/crepe batter all cooked together in a street forman grill), grabbed a couple more Saigons( Angkor beer is no match), went to go find some late night eats and ran into Sword again(no luck on the food), hung out on some tiny chairs and tiny tables(broke a chair), drank some johnny walker red with sting(a strawberry flavored energy drink, much better than it sounds, just ask my boss Benji), finally cruised home(last night of AC and TV), woke up and fed my face of street pho(this one had yummy chickeny meatbally tubes floating in it for added deliciousness), one last ca phe sue da(you bet I brought some coffee back),hopped on the bus( lucky for me this version didn't have the traditional mothball smell), maneuvered the border back to Cambodia(got that new Bizniz Visa!!!!!!), made it home by 8pm.

All in all I had a pretty good time and it was nice to see how much different these two neighboring countries, Cambodia and Vietnam, are. For a little bonus feature this week, I am gonna square them off in the first eva VayaConDoritos battle royal. At the end we will will see how these two SouthEast AZN amigos stack up.

Street Food and overall Yumminess
Bodia < Nam
Bodia has some good eats, but Nam has more variety and less flies.

Coffee
Bodia < Nam
No contest here, Bodia needs to stop serving Nescafe ASAP and get with the program.

Flavorocity of Beer
Bodia < Nam
Saigon and Hue taste much more like beer and less like water, Bodia you need to step up Nam is already running away with this.

General Lawlessness
Bodia > Nam
Bodia is pretty much the wild wild west, anything goes and I mean an y thang.

Moto Unpredictability
Bodia > Nam
Nam, sometimes you just gotta say fuck it and roll head on to oncoming traffic, yellow lines be dammed.

Livestock on the Road
Bodia > Nam
As soon as you cross the border in Bodia, less cars and more cows, buffalo, dogs, chicken, naked babies just straight walking across the highway. I do not envy my bus driver at all.
Making a nice lil comeback here Bodia.

Tummy Troubles
Bodia > Nam
Bodia you might have earned a point here, but not in a good way, wakka wakka.

Friendliness of Folk
Bodia=Nam
Push here people, both places have amazing and kind people always smiling and helpful to ole uncle lorli.

Cleanliness
Bodia < Nam
After a day out and about in Bodia you have a weird combo of sweat, grime, pollution, and maybe a bit of shame covering your body, Nam only has the sweat, and a touch of grime.

Mosquitos
Bodia < Nam
Pretty sure they forgot to mention in the brochure that I would have additional roommates here. Sometimes I think my blood is Mosquito Spanish Fly. Ouch.



Well, disregarding the extra point for constantly keeping my tummy on edge, it looks like its Nam by hair. Now I don't want to debate world politics today, just wait for my next post I got a lot to say about life, liberty, and the pursuit of happyness here in the Bodia. Nam was pretty rad, and a place I will be taking regular weekend trips to so expect another post or two about adventures on the east side of the Mekong. Here are a couple pics of last weekends trip and the remains of communism. Yayyyy!










Old School and New School Saigon











This is what happens when we lose a war.


Ice YUM YUM.


Nuevo Amigos, Sting and Walker, perfect combo.


Vayacondoritos
rorirent express

Monday, February 6, 2012

ANGRY BIRD FLU

This just in! The Center for Disease Control has issued a warning for Americans traveling overseas to Cambodia, and potentially Vietnam and Thailand(I haven't been yet so I don't know fo sho). It seems an intense and highly contagious form of Avian Bird Flu has taken over in Cambodia. From children to adults, no one is safe, as much of the population here has been infected. Symptom's include fever, disorientation, and a strong possibility of being slung shot towards a the make-shift house of a green pig.

Repeat, it is very contagious and the CDC recommends that those traveling abroad do their best to avoid what is being dubbed, "Angry Bird Flu." This flu has many modes of transmission, and though my crack hardy boyesque skills I have been working on the case to document and bring awareness and hopefully a solution to this epidemic. Below are some of the forms of the flu which I have come across in my short time here.

Something as seemingly harmless as this, a simple fishing bobber can easily be a vehicle for carrying the flu(this thing actually ended up in my roommates shopping bag full of veggies, trying to sneak its way into our guesthouse).



There are other ways this contagion can enter the system, through the use of office supplies that have been contaminated, quite an easy way for unsuspecting folks catch the flu.



Another way of catching this uber contagious flu is through wearing infected clothing, which seems to be the most common form of transmission, and has claimed youth and old alike, including our very own Chanthou here at Skateistan. Here are a few examples of articles of clothing which have or will soon have a host.






Can infect your feets too.



Here is a lil one that has the flu. He is one of our river front homeys and has a phone that has been infected too. No not with the game, with stickers. Cough, Cough.



Here is the Bird Flu in its most dangerous state. Infection of the mind, Inception style, where unsuspecting folks have their subconsciousness slowly being molded into a high flying, pig smashing bird. Yikes!



Overall I have seen little sign of this infection slowing down while here on the front lines. It seems to be just about everywhere. After doing some thorough research on my own I have discovered an intriguing fact. Nobody here actually knows where this phenomenon started. Really, honestly, and truly. They have never even heard of the game, here its just a bunch of Angry Birds taking the town by storm.

Next Time: Midnight Visa Run or maybe Cambodia the Land of Contradictions. Haven't figured out which will be more fun.